RECIPE

Savory, homemade bread — both regular and in gluten-free variations — has never been easier

"There are few things as comforting as fresh baked bread, so carve out the time and don't be scared"

By Bibi Hutchings

Columnist

Published September 21, 2023 2:30PM (EDT)

Sliced onion bread on a wooden board (Getty Images/Ulrich Zillmann)
Sliced onion bread on a wooden board (Getty Images/Ulrich Zillmann)

Even before the pandemic, psychologists, cookbook authors and self-help gurus like Dr. Nicole Beurkens, Jack Hazan, Julia Ponsonby and Pauline Beaumont suggested that we carve out time to stay home and bake — specifically bake bread — for our mental health and as a part of our self care routines.

Espousing home bread baking as a sort of moving meditation, like yoga or tai chi, therapists posited that this kind of time spent in the kitchen is good for us on many different levels: Baking bread forces us to slow down and following a multi-step recipe takes our full attention (creating mindfulness). They talk of how the repetitive movement of kneading bread eases frustration, calms the nervous system and releases tension and the waiting on and the watching of dough rise is somehow extremely calming.

They also mention the dopamine hit and serotonin release we get from eating it (comfort), smelling it (nostalgia/triggering fond memories) and having successfully made it (accomplishment) in our very own kitchen! 

For decades, I have had an on-again off-again relationship with bread making and never once have I thought of it as a form of self-care, but I like that is has gained that kind of status. The act of baking has always been calming and fulfilling for me, especially when my intention is to gift what I'm making, which is generally the case.

Other than a few loaves baked with my mother as a child, I began my foray into bread making in the 90s once I discovered that I felt better when I eliminated gluten from my diet and desperately craved a slice of bread after going many months without. At that time, where I lived in Alabama anyway, there were no gluten-free breads in the freezer case at my local grocery store, like there are now and there were no gluten-free baked goods to be purchased someplace locally. If I wanted it, I was going to have to learn to make it myself. So I did. 

I had some help along the way, but I figured it out mostly through failure. So much of what I baked early on should have gone straight into the trash, but I was so desperate I inevitably managed to salvage whatever I made into something edible.

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This bread I am sharing with you today is savory and moist and truly foolproof. Don't be scared of the the two unlikely bread ingredients: Onions and cottage cheese!

It's strange, really . . . you can't pick out either in the finished product, but the flavor they each impart, although subtle, is essential. You won't want to change a thing once you try it. 

I prefer to make mini-loaves from this recipe rather than one regular sized loaf. That way I gift more than I keep. It's best I do because I can't stay out of it once I make it. I have friends who claim to hate both onions and cottage cheese but are nuts for this bread. The cottage cheese provides moistness and a little bit of a tang similar to a sourdough and the onions give it a sharpness, making this bread perfect for a cheese toast, a tomato sandwich or for simply dipping into good olive oil or toasting and drizzling with honey. It also goes perfectly on a charcuterie board.

Baking ticks a lot of boxes on the list of what is missing from our incessant busy-ness. Most of us rush around in a great panic, multi-tasking and chasing our own tails, scarfing down "food" at the kitchen counter or, heaven forbid, eating in our cars. Baking bread makes us feel good by connecting us to our food and to ourselves through our senses — taste, touch, smell, sight — four out of five anyway!  

There are few things as comforting as fresh baked bread, so carve out the time and don't be scared. Even if it doesn't turn out perfectly the first time, it will almost certainly be edible. (Actually, it will almost certainly be delicious.) Sure, baking bread takes time and a little focus, but once you jump in and give it a go, you'll see how satisfying the entire process is.          

Onion Cheese Bread — original 
Yields
1 loaf
Prep Time
30 minutes (plus 1 1/2 to 2 hours rising time) 
Cook Time
45 minutes

Ingredients

1 tablespoon dry yeast granules, typically one packet

1/4 cup water water between 105 and 115 degrees

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup cottage cheese

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

1 tablespoon dill

1 teaspoon salt

1 egg, beaten

3 1/2 cups whole wheat or whole spelt flour, plus more for kneading surface 

 

Directions

  1. Sprinkle yeast granules in warm water and allow to sit about 15 minutes or until bubbly.

  2. Once bubbly, add everything but the flour and stir well.

  3. Then add 2 cups flour to bowl and beat with electric mixer 4-5 minutes.

  4. Stir in 1 1/2 cups more flour by hand. Dough should be stiff.

  5. Turn onto a well floured surface and knead 10 minutes or until smooth and elastic.

  6. Put dough into an oiled bowl, cover with a tea towel, place in a warm spot (around 85 degrees) and allow to rise about an hour or until doubled in size.

  7. Once doubled, punch down and flatten out to a little longer than the length of your loaf pan. Fold edges and roll up jellyroll style.

  8. Place in buttered (not oiled, it will stick) loaf pan. Cover and allow to rise a second time to the top of pan. 

  9. Once risen, bake at 350 for 45-50 minutes. Remove from pan and allow to cook on rack.

    *This recipe can be doubled but you may not want to double the dill.


Cook's Notes

-Why roll the dough up jellyroll style? Well, I don't know. I have actually tried to find out but have never been given an explanation other than that was the way they were taught once upon a time. Some swear rolling it this way gives it a better "crumb," which refers to the interior texture or size of the holes inside the loaf, which equates to the airiness of the bread.


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Gluten-free variation of onion cheese bread
Yields
00 servings
Prep Time
30 minutes (plus 45 minutes rising time) 
Cook Time
55 minutes

Ingredients

1 package yeast

1/4 cup warm water between 105-115 degrees

1  3/4 cups GF "Measure-for-Measure" flour blend (I like King Arthur brand)

1/2 sorghum flour (or whole, GF flour of choice)

2 Tbsp psyllium husk powder or flax meal (ground flax seeds)

1 tsp baking powder

3/4 tsp salt

2 Tbsp sugar (I prefer coconut sugar)

1/3 cup olive oil

1 tsp vinegar (I prefer apple cider vinegar)

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup cottage cheese

1/2 cup finely diced onion

1 Tbsp dill

 

Directions

  1. In a small dish dissolve yeast granules in warm water and allow to sit until bubbly, about 15 minutes.

  2. While waiting on yeast, whisk to mix all dry ingredients together and set aside. Include onions as well.

  3. In a larger, separate bowl, combine all wet ingredients, including eggs and cottage cheese, except yeast mixture.

  4. Combine wet and dry ingredients, plus 1/2 cup of water and yeast mixture  and beat with an electric mixer for about 2 minutes until well combined. 

  5. The dough should be like thick cake batter, so add more water if necessary, but don't add too much.

  6. Butter your loaf pan. I was instructed to use a metal pan not glass. Then spoon batter into it. Cover with a tea towel, place in a warm spot (about 85 degrees) and allow to rise 35-40 minutes, until doubled in size.

  7. Once doubled, bake on middle rack: 45 to 50 minutes if using multiple mini-loaf pans or 55 to 60 minutes for a full sized loaf pan. 

  8. It is done when it is golden on top and sounds hollow when tapped.

  9. Remove and allow to cool thoroughly on a rack before slicing.

     

     


Cook's Notes

-This recipe does not work with bean flours like garbanzo. It is too dense for a good rise.

-Despite using some "measure-for-measure" flour, you still need to add additional binding agents. You can use xanthin gum, but I prefer psyllium husk powder or flax meal as they are nutrition powerhouses (unlike xanthin gum).

-If you accidentally add too much water while mixing, don't fret. Bake the loaf as directed and if it not cooked all the way through once the top is browned, simply remove it from the pan and turn it upside down to bake some additional minutes.


By Bibi Hutchings

Bibi Hutchings, a lifelong Southerner, lives along a quiet coastal Alabama bay with her cat, Zulu, and husband, Tom. She writes about the magical way food evokes memories, instantly bringing you back to the people, places and experiences of your life. Her stories take you all around the South and are accompanied with tried-and-true recipes that are destined to become a part of your memory-making as you share them with your friends and family.         

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