Rayo: The hidden speakeasy where Mexican history and mythology comes to life

If you don't know where you're going, it's easy to miss the entrance. Keep an eye out for the bulldog medallion

By Ximena N. Beltran Quan Kiu

A Chicago-based writer, her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine

Published December 3, 2024 12:15PM (EST)

Speakeasy-Style Bar / Club, view from the bartop (Getty Images/Jitalia17)
Speakeasy-Style Bar / Club, view from the bartop (Getty Images/Jitalia17)

The era of Prohibition, which spanned 13 years in the United States before its repeal on December 5, 1933, left a lasting legacy that went far beyond dry laws. It catalyzed the rise of organized crime, laid the blueprint for Las Vegas (inspired by Tijuana’s bustling strip of businesses where Americans could drink and gamble freely), introduced the Caesar Salad, and, perhaps most notably, birthed the modern cocktail movement.

While cocktails predated Prohibition, it was during this era that their purpose shifted. The decline in alcohol quality due to rampant bootlegging forced bartenders to mask the harsh flavors of bathtub gin and moonshine. From this period, innovation boomed, resulting in timeless classics like the Bee’s Knees, French 75 and Sidecar.

Though the United States’ experiment with Prohibition didn’t extend south of the border, its cultural impact reverberated there, influencing Mexico’s cocktail scene in ways that endure today. Nowhere is this more evident than at Rayo, a bar tucked inside a Porfirian-style mansion in Mexico City, where history and innovation collide in a singular drinking experience.

A hidden gem in Mexico City

If you don't know where you’re going, it’s easy to miss the narrow entry to Rayo. 

Look for a cast iron medallion of a bulldog on the building’s exterior to indicate you’re in the right place. It’s the first sign that Rayo has layers of depth and complexity that reveal themselves the closer you look.

“Our aim was to create a place where guests feel a genuine sense of Mexican hospitality and history through each drink,” says Victor Garibay, founder and owner of Rayo. “When guests leave, we hope they feel like they’ve connected with Mexico on a deeper level, not just through the flavors but through the stories and symbols that make up each part of Rayo.”

After checking in, patrons are guided to an antique elevator, where they’re served espresso shots for the short ride to the third floor. The doors open to the dimly lit floor where a neon sign in the shape of a lightning bolt illuminates the space. Once seated, guests are presented with a wooden box that includes 10 sample tinctures of their “Mexico Through the Senses” cocktail menu.

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This tasting ritual encourages exploration before committing to a full-sized drink (with the disclaimer that some drinks will vary in taste due to prep). 

“The menu celebrates so many different regions, weaving together the country’s spirit-making traditions with modern, playful storytelling elements,” says Garibay. “Each cocktail, titled by number, has its own narrative, rooted in cultural history. The #1 Cocktail, for example, is inspired by carne en su jugo, a traditional beef stew from Northern Jalisco. It’s made with a lacto-ferment of the stew’s vegetables, beef-and-bacon-infused mezcal, and garnished with a beef tendon chicharrón."

Garibay also points to Cocktail #2, which pays homage to the cultural significance of corn. It features a false corn garnish made from leftover sweet corn scraps. Emulsified elote batter is molded to resemble corn on the cob.

Crafting connections through cocktails

The meticulous thought behind each drink extends beyond flavor. 

The bar amplifies the experience from the moment its name is spoken, with subtle, symbolic details woven throughout its design. Rayo draws its name from the Aztec myth of the goddess Mayahuel, who descended to Earth with her lover, Quetzalcoatl. Their forbidden union incurred the wrath of Mayahuel's grandmother, who destroyed the lovers after they transformed into an agave plant. In his grief, Quetzalcoatl planted Mayahuel's remains, from which a maguey plant grew. When lightning struck the plant, its sap began to flow, symbolizing her transformation into the source of spirits like mezcal, tequila and sotol. This lightning bolt, a symbol of life, is called rayo in Spanish and is subtly incorporated into both the menu and the venue’s design.

The box that holds the 10 tinctures serves as a showcase of Mexico’s regional craftsmanship. Made from barro negro — the black clay synonymous with Oaxacan artistry — it features designs representing four Mexican regions known for their spirit-making traditions: Oaxaca, Michoacán, Jalisco and Chihuahua. These regions are the origins of the spirits highlighted in the menu’s cocktails: mezcal from Oaxaca, charanda from Michoacán, tequila from Jalisco, and sotol from Chihuahua. Each side of the box pays homage not only to traditional craftsmanship, but also to the unique spirit that defines its respective region.

“These touches are our way of bringing those regions to life in a contemporary setting,” says Garibay. “We want Rayo to be a place where people can not only drink well but also gain a greater appreciation for the Mexican way of life and the depth of its culture.”

A nod to the past, with an eye on the future

One standout creation at Rayo is the Avery Milk Punch, a drink that Garibay says connects the bar’s location to its own storied past. 

“We found an old plaque on the building with a bulldog named ‘Avery’ and the phrase ‘Teeth Talk,’” recalls Garibay. “After digging into the building’s history, we found a connection to the Avery Company, a tractor manufacturer from Illinois in the 1800s. One of the building’s past owners had imported an Avery tractor and later turned this space into a horchatería, which we believe became a speakeasy during Prohibition.”

Prohibition in Mexico was not as widespread or long-lasting as its cousin up north, but it did require the same circumventing of laws in order to be able to serve alcohol within city limits. The Avery Milk Punch is designed to acknowledge this past. It uses Mexican moonshine with fig, green apple, lemon, milk and vanilla tea — ingredients that would’ve been common in the early 19th century. 

"What excites me most is that the city is evolving in a way that celebrates Mexico’s roots."

The drink, served in a tea cup, is garnished with Gorgonzola-stuffed olives (on the recommendation of a cheese expert with whom the bar partnered) for an umami finish. 

Garibay sees Rayo as part of a broader movement celebrating Mexican heritage in unexpected ways.

“The city has always had this magnetic energy, and now it’s being recognized as a global, cultural epicenter,” Garibay said. “What excites me most is that the city is evolving in a way that celebrates Mexico’s roots. Whether it’s through cuisine, art, or cocktails, we’re seeing the re-emergence of traditional techniques and ingredients used in unexpected and exciting ways. I’m proud that Rayo is part of this moment and contributing to a global appreciation for the depth and diversity of Mexican culture.”

Rayo may not be a speakeasy in the traditional sense, but its hidden entrance, historical references, and reverence for the past create a uniquely immersive experience — one that invites guests to savor not just the cocktails but the rich, layered stories behind them.


By Ximena N. Beltran Quan Kiu



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Cocktails Mexico Prohibition Repeal Day Speakeasy Spirits Travel