Sangas, toasties or whatever moniker Melburnians use — sandwiches are finally having a moment in Australia’s food capital. Back in 2015, when I lived there, even a mention of a tuna melt drew a furrowed brow. But now, trendy delis and diner-style joints across Melbourne are slinging ooey-gooey gourmet creations between two slices of fresh bread.
“The ‘chef-ification’ of sandwiches became popular off the back of COVID,” says MasterChef Australia judge and food journalist Sofia Levin. “The lockdown of restaurants followed by a reduced interest in dining out led restaurateurs and chefs to pivot from open kitchens to sandwich counters.”
Levin says it was a win-win, as running a sandwich shop is more economical than a restaurant, and diners can still indulge in quality food without exorbitant prices. “Add in a hefty dose of nostalgia, and it’s a trend that seems to have stuck,” she says.
Hector’s Deli is arguably the OG of Melbourne’s sandwich scene, opening in the Richmond neighborhood in 2017. Post-COVID, Hector’s has expanded to four locations across the city, and there’s still a daily lunch queue for their wildly good “Beef & Pickle” sandwich, made with beef brisket, mustard pickle spread, pickles and sauerkraut served on rye. But their fried chicken sandwich — made with crumbed chicken schnitzel, tarragon butter, lettuce and housemade pickle mayo on a steamed potato bun — is their bestseller.
“Once Hector’s took off, it felt like similar-style sandwich delis started popping up everywhere,” says Ross Howse, Melbourne-based digital creator of Bangin’ Sangas social media accounts. “Melbourne has fully embraced the variety and artistry that goes into sandwiches. It’s slowly turning into a mini New York, which is known for its iconic deli culture.”
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After sampling nearly every piled-high creation from the city’s meat, cheese, and bread artists, Howse swears by lesser-known sanga spots like Don’s in the inner suburb of Prahran. This stylish wine bar perfectly pairs a fried chicken sandwich—topped with cabbage, cucumber, and buttermilk dressing—with a local Aussie vintage. “Their chicken sandwich is like nothing else. Crunchy, juicy, and absolutely loaded with sweet and spicy flavors,” says Howse.
At Warung Coffee, in the South Yarra neighborhood, they market themselves as a “humble local sandwich bar,” but they make what Howse once called the best sandwich in Melbourne: the beef rendang toastie. They slow-cook the beef in Indonesian spices for four hours before layering it with sauerkraut, mayo, sweet mustard, and pickles on sourdough. “Beef rendang is one of my all-time favorite dishes. Put it between two slices of toasted sourdough with cheese and sauerkraut and it hits a whole new level,” he says.
Celebrity foodie Levin also opts for the lesser-known spots rather than the city’s sandwich giants. “The ones that I love the most stand out because they make everything from scratch, use unique ingredients or have points of difference, which I find more exciting,” she says. “My absolute favorite is Ca Com, the banh mi shop from the Anchovy team. They break down whole pigs in their hatted kitchen next door to make the jungle sausage in my favorite order.”
Honorable mention goes to Smith + Deli for their range of vegan sandwiches using plant-based cold cuts and Maker & Mongers inside the Prahran Market for having what Levin thinks is the world’s best cheese toastie.
So when in Melbourne, skip the fish and chips — or even pavlova — and opt for a prosciutto-stacked focaccia from Stefanino Panino in Collingwood or a meatball sub made from a three-generation-old recipe at Piccolo Viccolo in Ascot Vale.
Comfort food at its finest and most accessible, Melbourne’s sandwich scene is arguably the city’s most satisfying food craze. As Howse says, “Melbourne has a way of turning you into a sandwich lover.”
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