For as long as I can remember, my church has held a "cookie walk" on the Sunday before Christmas. Basically, whoever wants to participate can bake up a batch of their family's favorite holiday cookies, then stand in a small auditorium at a plastic folding table to proudly offer up their creations.
For a paltry $5, my mom, brother and I gain access to the auditorium, where we stroll from table to table. We use our gloved hands to grab a cookie here and a cookie there, filling the tins or plastic baggies we have in tow to the brim with the homemade wares of our fellow parishioners.
Chitchatting with the churchgoers hawking their products, strategizing with my family as we navigate the room and adding to the bounty of baked goods to schlep home are all sources of warm, wonderful holiday memories. It's hard not to want to bring each and every cookie home to enjoy during the most wonderful time of the year.
These cherished moments, however, pale in comparison to our own holiday cookie tradition. Continued on in the lore of my mom's family, we bake sheet tray upon sheet tray of festively colored and decorated butter cookies, which range from green wreaths with sprinkles to white snowflakes with colored sugars. (In perusing the internet, it seems as though most deem this type of cookie a "butter spritz cookie.")
We make double or triple batches, using our largest bowls and wooden spoons to ensure we have a surplus of cookies that last through the end of the season. They're the primary component of our Christmas Day dessert, as well as a "favor" of sorts that we sometimes send to relatives. For as long as I can remember, the towering amount of cookie tins on the dining room table has been a permanent holiday fixture. My dad was an especially big fan of these cookies, and he would often pile an excessive amount in his hands to munch on as he watched TV.
We use the old-school "cookie guns," sometimes called cookie presses, which allow for what feels like assembly line-style efficiency and productivity. This typically involves one person mixing the dough, a second filling the "gun," another pressing the cookies, someone decorating them and someone else supervising the oven.
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In about an hour, we're able to churn out scores of cookies, which we later pack in nostalgic holiday tins complete with a piece of bread to help slow the cookies from hardening as January creeps closer. (We're not exactly sure of the science of how this works, but a single slice of white, whole wheat or potato bread inside of the closed tin results in much softer, more tender, less stale cookies.)
Incredibly simple and deeply comforting, these cookies are emblematic of the holidays, as well as practically perfect in every way. Crisp yet soft, immensely craveable and perfectly sized, I'd liken them to Pringles or popcorn because it's pretty much impossible to have only one.
Their aroma, bite-size shape, soft chew and festive colors permeate all of my holiday memories. (I don't believe I was munching on them at three months old, but I've enjoyed these cookies for 99.9% of my Christmases.) My mom's parents were German and Slovak, and while we know this is some sort of classic European butter cookie, we're not entirely certain where the recipe originated. Mom's entire immediate family is put to work during the holiday cookie-baking process, with Nana tallying up the precise number of cookies made and comparing the total to previous years.
I'd liken them to Pringles or popcorn because it's pretty much impossible to have only one.
The one nonnegotiable component of this process? We always play Hanson's 1997 magnum opus "Snowed In." (Trust me, Hanson should be known for much more than just "MMMBop.") In many instances, I let the album loop, ensuring that our holiday soundtrack continues to play in tune with the sights and smells of seemingly endless cookie baking.
Often made by my aunts, the rest of our selection may include chocolate chip cookies, nut balls, pecan clusters, pizzelle, decorated sugar cookies, anise- or lemon-flavored rounded cookies with brightly colored icing, as well as those crescent moon-shaped cookies often decorated with a heaping amount of powdered sugar. An assortment of these cookies, my family's butter cookies and our haul from the church cookie walk sustains us throughout the entire season — and then some.
In honor of these traditions, I decided to host a "virtual cookie walk" with Salon Food, allowing our team to share their favorite holiday cookies, as well as what makes them so special. (You can thank me later for that Hanson recommendation!)
2024 entries:
Kelly McClure, Nights and Weekends Editor:
"Sometimes a trash cookie is the best bet and I've been obsessed with those super sugary and festively decorated sugar cookies in the Walmart bakery section. Basic? Maybe. But this holiday season required maximum comfort wherever I could find it and these did the trick. I think I'm on my sixth container this season and on my last shopping trip I took it up a notch to get Dolly Parton's version, which comes in this festive kit which I'll be making on Christmas Eve for me and the dog. I don't plan to share though. All for me."
Jillian Kestenbaum, Social Media Producer:
"In my humble opinion, a holiday celebration is not complete without a box of Italian rainbow cookies (shout-out to Uncle Giuseppe’s for selling the best supermarket on-the-go option for tri-state dwellers). Is there anything better than a little cube of almond-y sponge cake layers, apricot and raspberry jam, and a thin, decadent layer of chocolate on top? No. And I will not be taking any questions at this time.
For those who enjoy, ahem, a liquid dessert to cap a long Christmas night, may I suggest a classic Irish coffee? No need to dust off the Baileys in the back of your pantry that’s probably expired — you can make one quickly and easily with four ingredients: hot coffee, Irish whiskey (Jameson is a staple for a reason), sugar, and whipped cream. You can even impress your guests by making it from scratch — but let's be honest, the can is just fine. Turn on TBS’s 24-hour marathon of “A Christmas Story” and enjoy!"
Nardos Haile, Staff Writer, Culture:
"Every holiday, like clockwork, I make peanut butter blossom cookies. Maybe I love making them because it makes me smile seeing my two brothers suck up dozens of cookies like unstoppable vacuums in a matter of days. (Nobody else eats these cookies but them).
But I also really enjoy how peanut butter blossoms consistently turn out great and I don’t have to anxiously wonder if it will perfectly come together or flop disastrously like everything else I bake. You can never go wrong with these classic treats!"
Mary Elizabeth Williams, Senior Writer:
"For some, the holidays begin when Santa arrives at the Thanksgiving parade. For others, it's the first strains of Mariah belting "All I want for Christmas is yoooooooooo." For my friends and me, it's when we start texting about the Gramercy gingerbread. Claudia Fleming's masterpiece is dense, spicy, and so moist it WILL defy your best efforts to keep it from falling apart when you take it out of the bundt pan. It is objectively the most delicious dessert in the world, and I say this as a person who literally cannot go 24 hours without eating chocolate. This year, our oven has been on the fritz and I truly don't know how or if I can pull of this already challenging dessert. But I can take comfort that even a so-so result will still be the best thing I'll eat all December."
Natalie Chandler, Money Editor:
"The town I grew up in was mostly southern Baptist, which meant no drinking. But nobody complained about the rum-soaked fruitcake at Christmas! Also, neighbors and friends always brought over the hoiday tins full of homemade fudge, "divinity," and pralines."
You can share your favorite holiday cookies and the photos, recipes and stories behind them by clicking here to email us. Happy holidays!
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