After "Top Chef," Gabe Erales finds purpose in supporting marginalized Mexican youth

Chef Gabe Erales had quite the formidable run on the Portland-set, 18th season of "Top Chef," which he eventually won, besting runner-up chefs Dawn Burrell and Shota Nakajima.

Throughout the competition, Erales showcased his talent and passion with standout dishes such as smoked and glazed plums with orchard fruit jus, pork and chicken; banana leaf-steamed black cod with crispy skin and salsa veracruzana; sopa de mariscos; and short rib with chichilo negro mole, mushrooms, and pickled persimmons. His skill was perhaps most evident in his mastery of magical moles and his more inventive creations, like fried cochinita pibil head cheese with habanero ash emulsion, avocado mousse, and kumquat sauce. (His frequent use of fruit in savory dishes was particularly notable.)

Since "Top Chef," Erales has opened two restaurants, but his proudest accomplishment might be his newest venture: his role as executive director of Oido Culinary Academy. In a recent interview with Salon, Erales discussed his new position, the academy’s mission, how he is personally connected to its goals and what he hopes to achieve through the organization.

Chef Gabe Erales (Photo by Mackensie Smith Kelly)

The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and length. 

The mission behind Oido Culinary Academy sounds wonderful. How did you become involved with the organization? 

I was connected with the founder of the organization,  Amy Dominguez, given my Mexican cooking background and at the time my Yucatan cuisine-focused restaurant, Bacalar. She reached out and invited to participate in the organization’s culinary winter event with other Mexican Chefs. It was such an amazing experience for me personally that I asked to continue to be involved and then became a culinary advisory board member.

Can you tell readers a bit about your personal connection with the Yucatán Peninsula and Quintana Roo specifically? 

Both of my parents were born in Chetumal, Quintana Roo, Mexico and studied in Merida.  I still have a lot of family all over the region and have spent a lot of time there. My culinary focus over the last four years has been really honed in on regional Yucatan cuisine. 

 How does "Oido" — or "I hear you," often used in kitchens — encapsulate the ethos of Oido Culinary Academy? 

The term "oído" is used very often and commonly in the kitchens of Mexico. From a practical standpoint, it is the [Spanish] equivalent of "Yes, chef." It's an acknowledgment of understanding and respect. It's a commitment to following through both on an individual level and with teamwork that is working to accomplish a common goal whether short or long term. This phrase represents our mission and ethos as we seek to listen to the voices and needs of the communities we support and provide adolescent youth with culinary education opportunities, mentorship and guidance. We "hear," "understand," and will "support" you. 

Oido is a nonprofit offering a two-year accredited culinary program to marginalized youth in Mexico. Why does that resonate with you? 

Many of these kids, if they do graduate high school, don't make plans to study and seek a formal higher education. There are expectations to find work quickly and support the family, so in many ways they are left to fend for themselves and figure out life without guidance. Through Oído, we are offering the guidance and path to success, providing opportunities for a better life both for the student and his/her family.

It resonates deeply with me because my parents were very strict about the importance of continuing education and building a career for myself. I moved to Austin, TX and supported myself through UT Austin's mechanical engineering school by working in restaurants which I later found to be a deeper passion that outgrew engineering.

That's terrific. I read that you recently cooked at a dinner celebrating Hanal Pixán. Could you explain a bit about that custom? 

Hanal Pixán is the Maya term for the Day of the Dead celebration which takes place Oct. 31 through Nov 2. There are numerous foods and traditions associated with the celebration and it can differ vastly from the Dia de los Muertos celebration in other parts of Mexico.

Many of the celebratory foods are cooked in a "pib" which is the traditional earthen oven dug in the ground and lined with rocks and coals. It is then covered with palm leaves and dirt to seal in the food being cooked, like a celebratory mucbipollo. Mucbipollo is probably the most popular hana pixán preparation. It’s a large tamal filled with both chicken and pork, achiote, onion, tomato and epazote. It is then wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in the pib. Many of these traditions and foods date back to the pre-hispanic Maya era.

 For those unaware of your journey since winning "Top Chef," can you break it down for them? 

Since winning "Top Chef," I have spent my time planning and opening two restaurants. One in Austin, TX called Bacalar, a Yucatan-inspired restaurant and Ometeo, an upscale Tex-Mex Restaurant in the greater DC-DMV area. Concurrently I had launched a scholarship program for the CIA called Ninos de Maiz and got in involved with Oído (formerly called Hands Offering Hope). I also returned to my alma mater, UT Austin and obtained my SHRM certification.

Most importantly, I took on the role of Exec. Director with Oído. 

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You were a true master of moles on "Top Chef." What would be your top tips for making elite moles at home? 

Start with a less complex mole like a pipian, mole de olla or a mole verde that doesn’t require as many ingredients as something like a mole negro. 

The biggest mistake people make when making moles is not cooking it long enough which results in a bitter, raw, non-harmonious taste. Do not add all the spices the recipe calls for all at once. Spices vary greatly and the last thing you want is a mole that is overpowered with cinnamon, allspice, clove, etc.

Any plans for a cookbook? 

I have already written one cookbook as a coauthor called Mexican Food: The Ultimate Cookbook by Cidermillpress. The next cookbook project will be for Oído that we are currently working on that will be a compilation of recipes from the Yucatan prepared by both Chefs who have gone through the Oído program and Cocineras Tradicionales. The proceeds will benefit the organization.

 Do you have a number one favorite ingredient to work with? 

Heirloom corn and/or masa definitely. I am obsessed with corn varieties and nixtamalization.

What was the biggest lesson or takeaways you gleaned from competing in — and winning — "Top Chef"?

As a cook you need to develop a personal cooking voice that represents who you are and where you come from. You can only get so far cooking the food that you learned working underneath other chefs and restaurants. It's important to take pieces from everywhere you cooked and put it in your toolbelt to create a bigger picture of what your own food is. It essentially comes down to being yourself, cooking for yourself and not trying to cook to what you think appeals to somebody else. 

Oido Culinary Academy students and instructors (Photo courtesy of Oido Culinary Academy)

 What stands out for you as a formative moment that got you into cooking or food at large? 

Primarily traveling to Mexico and being excited by the vast diversity of cuisines across so many regions. I would also say the impact that a cooked meal can have on an individual, especially depending on what they are experiencing in their life at that very moment. 

What would you say are your three most used ingredients? 

Heirloom corn or masa, chiles and fermented pantry items (created by kitchen byproduct)

That's fascinating. Any favorite memory from your time working with students at Oido? Or favorite food or cooking memory in general?

I think my favorite cooking memory was being a part of the test kitchen team at Noma Mexico, developing one of the most memorable menus I have ever seen or eaten. We had every special ingredient from every corner of Mexico all in one room at any given time and that doesn't always happen.

My favorite memory to date working with students at Oído was the first time I visited the school and prepared a tamal colado with them. It fed my soul to see the eagerness and excitement of each student to learn and grow, especially when it was a dish from their heritage that they have probably eaten hundreds of times. They trusted me to show them my version and that was special.

What's next for you — and Oido — in an ideal world? 

Ideally, we grow Oído so much financially that we are able to hire more full-time staff in the U.S. to further support efforts at the school in Mexico. Additionally, I would love to see us grow the number of students we enroll in a class (currently eight).

Our school in Kantunilkin is on a large property with a good size building that offers a lot of potential. I would love to gain funding to renovate that building to match our growth. I am still very much involved as a Chef/Partner in Ometeo and we have plans for future growth. I would also love to do a smaller tasting menu style restaurant in Texas at some point in the future.

Any other goals for Oido in 2025? 

The primary focus of my efforts for year 1 are focused on rebranding (Hands Offering Hope->Oido), growing our funding, streamlining our education curriculum, connecting the students with incredible internship opportunities, creating awareness globally for the organization and refining our board and strategy moving forward.